The new Pulsed Efies have shown even better gains with HHO than the older floating voltage design.
The New Pulsed Efies are available in single and double and also can include a Map sensor adjuster. They are available
from
tpace1972@charter.net. You may also order by calling 256-221-7407. This part is also shipped from GA.
LEGEND:
AFR= Air Fuel Ratio
EFIE = Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer
ECU = Engine Computer
If you are planning on adding a HHO generator of any type to your vehicle, the first thing you will need
is a repair manual for your vehicle. The reason for this is that you will need to be able to locate and sometimes alter different
sensors on this vehicle to get the HHO generator to perform well . You will also need a good Multimeter, and
in most cases, a good Amp meter for amp draw setup for the HHO generator.
We recommend an item called a Fuse Buddy. This is a great little amp gauge that plugs
right into the fuse holder for direct amp readings.
Old Style O2 Sensor
The oxygen sensor was introduced en mass in 1981 for use on GM vehicles, and
has been used by all manufactures since then. It has an operating range of 0-1 volt. The higher the voltage, the richer the
detected AFR. The lower the voltage, the leaner the AFR. A rich mixture is a lean command. A lean mixture is a rich command.
It is commonly called a Narrow-Band sensor because it is only accurate within a narrow range of AFR operation. Right at the
14.7:1 AFR, a small change in AFR yields a large change in voltage. As the engine goes leaner or richer from the 14.7:1, the
voltage changes get smaller and smaller.
A device that has been used for several years is the Electronic
Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE), developed by George Wiseman of Eagle Research. The principle is to create a small amount of
voltage offset that is electrically isolated from chassis ground. It is like a free-floating battery installed in line with
the signal wire. This raises the voltage to the ECU indicating a richer-than-actual AFR.
If you have
an older vehicle with loose parameters, you may be able to add as much as 0.450 volts to the O2 signal. If you have a newer
vehicle with tight parameters, you may not be able to get away with more than about 0.280 volts. Experimentation will dictate
what your ECU will tolerate.
The old single wire sensors are easy to spot, since it is the only wire.
There have been 2-, 3-, and 4-wire sensors used over the years. You may have to use a manual to determine which wire is the
signal wire. Usually on a 4-wire sensor, you have 2 white wires for the heating element, a grey wire that is ground, and a
black wire for your signal out.
Another method is to add an O2 extender to the O2 sensor This pulls the
sensor out of the exhaust stream and allows for leaning out the AFR. This does NOT always work! On approximately
20 % of vehicles, you will have to install an EFIE.
Wide Band Sensors
GOOD NEWS!! You can use the same EFIE on the signal wire of a wide band. The blue wire is for
the signal. Wide bands will have 5 wires. That is the dead give-away. They have been used widely on VWs and Mazdas.
AFR Sensors
These are used a lot on Toyotas and other select makes. AFR sensors operate under a totally
different set of rules. The same sensor is used in 2 different ways by various OEMs. One method involves putting a fixed voltage
on the reference wire (white) and varying the current to maintain a fixed voltage on the signal wire (blue). Another method
is to apply a fixed voltage and current to the reference wire, and monitor the voltage coming out. Either way, they are current
devices, not voltage devices.
To alter an AFR sensor, cut the blue signal wire and install low value
resistors. The range will be 30 ohms or less. Most of the vehicles have liked the 7 to 18 ohm range. I've never needed over
20 ohms as of yet. Again, an Ohm Ranger or low value pot will be helpful in your tuning. You will be able to feel 1 ohm resistance
change.
This trim pot will also work for the 4 and 5 wire MAF sensors. Cut the ground wire on these
sensors and install it to adjust AFR normally, Set it to 5 OHM as a starting point .
Oxygen Sensor Adjustment - General Information
Almost all modern vehicles, either fuel injected or carburated, employ oxygen sensors to
tell the vehicle's computer if the air/fuel mixture is too rich or too lean. The computer uses the information from the 02
sensor to determine if more or less fuel should be added to the mix in order to maintain the correct proportion.
Most vehicles are designed to operate at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. When these proportions are being supplied to the
engine, a certain amount of oxygen will be detected in the exhaust by the 02 sensor, and this information is fed into the
vehicle's computer. If more oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too lean (not enough fuel), and adds fuel
to the mix. Likewise, if less oxygen is sensed, the computer thinks the mixture is too rich (too much fuel) and cuts back
on the fuel fed to the engine. This is actually an artificial relationship, but has been found to be workable with the existing
techniques of burning fuel in your car's engine.
Problems can arise however when a workable fuel
efficiency device is added. For any given air/fuel ratio, burned more efficiently, the oxygen content in the exhaust
will rise. If you have two or more efficiency devices installed, even more oxygen will be present in the exhaust. The oxygen
content rises as the fuel is burned more efficiently for a number of reasons. Chief amongst these are a) less fuel is being
used to produce an equivalent amount of horsepower, and b) less oxygen is being consumed to create carbon monoxide in the
exhaust. The bottom line is there is more oxygen in the exhaust as the fuel burning efficiency is increased.
So, now that you have spent time and money to install a fuel efficiency device or two, and we are getting a more efficient
fuel burn, what does the vehicle's computer do? It dumps gas into the mix in an attempt to get an oxygen reading in the exhaust
equal to it's earlier, inefficient setup. This will then negate the fuel savings of just about any efficiency device, and
in some cases will actually cause an increase in fuel consumption, despite having a workable fuel efficiency device.
The Solution
The solution to this situation is simple. The signal coming from the 02 sensor needs to be
adjusted to compensate for the increased fuel efficiency being achieved. Basically, you need to fool the computer into
thinking that the engine is still burning gas inefficiently by making it think there is less oxygen in the exhaust than there
actually is. The amount of change to the signal has to be easily adjustable to accommodate different amounts of efficiency
increase from the varying types of efficiency devices that are available.
It should be noted that an
oxygen sensor handling device, by itself, is not a fuel efficiency device. It possibly could be used to control the vehicle's
computer, and make the engine burn a little leaner, and this could possibly give a small increase in gas mileage. But this
is not what it was designed to do. It was designed to complement, and in some cases make possible, increased gas mileage using
other fuel efficiency devices.
OTHER HELP
BROWN RED WATER may appear in a hydrogen generator very quickly. Why?
This is natural. It is caused by iron content in the water. The first thing
that starts to happen when you electrolyze water to break it into hydrogen and oxygen is that the iron in the water starts
to be released and is called Iron bloom. Steam distilled and rain water has less iron but it still has some iron in it and
this is what requires us to have to clean the HHO generators fairly often. This is why we say DON'T buy a generator that you
can't flush out or take apart to clean, for sooner than later you will have to clean it. Normal operation on a hydrogen generator
will require you to drain and flush the system normally every few weeks of operation.